Quality leather shoes are designed for resole, repair and refurbishing.

Shoe Repair Services for Quality Leather and Designer Footwear
Worn Out Footwear Needing Repair

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A Brief Overview of Shoe Repair : What's Doable?

Traditional leather shoes, whether for men or women, were constructed with separate components for the sole and the uppers.  This construction technique recognized that the soles wear out far faster even in normal wear than the upper. 

With that design, professional shoe craftsmen can remove the original sole and replace it with a comparable replacement sole.  In men's shoe it is entirely feasible to replace the sole 5 or more times before the uppers need repair.  In women's shoes, the soles can be typically replace 2 to 3 times while preserving the original look, design and feel of the shoe.

Bespokeshoecare is a specialist in the repair and resoling of fine designer shoes, paying special attention to the delicate detailing which underlies the quality of the look and the manufacture of the shoes.

Leather Shoe Repairs | Vibram / Rubber Soles | Molded, Proprietary & Unibody | Terminology

Molded"Unibody" Rubber Construction, Proprietary Soles

Not fixable

Where the midsole/insole/outersole are a single "unibody" molded hard rubber unit, resoling is generally not possible .

Molded rubber "unibody" type sole, used surprisingly often in high end shoes, are much like an Alfa Romeo automobile, they look good for awhile but rue the day they ever need repairing! 

All we can do really is offer our condolences!  
We call them one-hit wonders.

no fix driving mocsoledriving

Women's hiking no fix dansko no fix 2

We have a special call-out for Dansko because of the frequency which we see conditions where the underlying sole base is cracked all the way through.  When that happens, yes, you might still put a new outer sole on the shoe but the underlying structure is gone. 

We will not repair a shoe if we know that the overall structure has been compromised.


Vibram™ and similar material soled shoes are constructed in a manner similar to traditional leather soled shoes to facilitate replacement by allowing for careful separation of the sole from the upper components. 

mens2 oxford top side men men

An Generic Overview of Men's Leather Shoe Construction Details

Shoe construction details
Image used with permission

Leather Shoe Repair

A pair leather shoes, properly cared for (which essentially means keeping them clean and dry) can often be resoled many times.  For study men's and oxford styles, five to seven times is not unheard of before the uppers become stretched and worn out.  Women's shoes, generally built of lighter materials, nevertheless can often be resoled three to five times before giving up the ghost.  And especially with high heels and pumps, timely replacement heel replacement will have a tremendous impact on longevity.  

Take a look at your shoes.  In quality shoe construction worn, soles and heels can be carefully separated and removed by skilled professionals and new soles reattached with stitching and bonding materials. It's not rocket science but does require craftsmanship and a commitment to attend to the smallest detail to assure quality performance.

Shoe Repair Terminology


Most leather shoes are designed for sole replacement and refurbishment.  Typical techniques include:

Sewn constructions use a welt or a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that is stitched to the upper and insole of a shoe, as an attach-point for the sole. The space enclosed by the welt is then filled with cork or some other filler material (usually either porous or perforated, for breathability), and the outsole is both cemented and stitched to the welt.

Veldshoen construction instead of the upper leather turning underneath the insole like more common constructions, the Veldtschoen turns outwards and is stitched directly to the mid-sole.

Cemented shoe construction is one in which the upper fabric of the shoe is attached to the sole by a light layer of cement rather than by stitching.

Rubber or Artifical Materials

Rubber or Rubber-like artificial engineered materials utilize Vulcanized processes or injection moulding techniques.

NOTE: Few of these allow for repair and replacement.

The Visible Parts of a Shoe

The Quarter - member of the 'backpart' of the shoe, horseshoe shaped piece of leather, cradles heel of foot

Topline - top edge of the quarter

Heel - obvious part, 'toplift' part in contact with ground, 'heel base' between toplift and sole, 'heel seat' inside shoe where heel contacts, many variations: Cuban, Louis, Wedge, etc.

Instep - location which corresponds to instep of foot

Waist - area of shoe between instep and ball of foot

Tongue - leather flat under laces

Throat - area just in front of waist and behind ball on upper surface of shoe

Vamp - technically whole forepart of shoe upper, but more commonly top surface of the ball

Toe cap - reinforcement piece over toe of shoe

Outsole - bottom layer of shoe in contact with ground

Shank - part of outsole under arch of foot

The Structural Elements

Outsole - various materials used, material varies according to: quality / style / utility requirements

Insole - structural hub of shoe, many other components attached to it, usually made of leather, must absorb moisture, be light and flexible, resist curling and cracking

Midsole - for shoes requiring heavy or reinforced base, between outsole and insole, usually composite material

Counter - reinforcement for back of shoe, stiffened fibre material, shaped to contour to sides and back of heel, helps to keep the shape of the shoe

Box Toe (toe puff) - reinforcement concealed beneath upper at toe

Shankpiece - sandwiched between outside and inside along shank of shoe under arch, NOT an arch support, reinforcement to strengthen 'bridge' between heel and forefoot, usually made of metal

Quarter Lining - horseshoe shape around back part of shoe

Vamp Lining - inside upper of forepart and toe of shoe

Sock Lining - covering all OR part of the top surface of the insole